The first "Panther" motif appeared in 1914. It was no more than simple onyx spots. In just three years it had grown into a complete animal — a wild, powerful but graceful feline. Louis Cartier put it on a vanity case designed for an inspiring woman he had just met, Jeanne Toussaint. She became a close colleague. Possessing a love of flowers and animals, she significantly developed the panther theme at Cartier. Now beautifully expressed in three dimensions, the panther enchanted leading clients like the Duchess of Windsor. It became the emblem of Cartier.
PANTHER-PATTERN
WATCH-BROOCH
CARTIER PARIS, 1915
Platinum, three pear-cut diamonds, old-cut diamonds, onyx, double black silk cord.
Rectangular LeCoultre caliber 111 movement with cut corners, fausses Côtes de Genève decoration, silver-plated, 8 adjustments, 19 jewels, Swiss lever escapement, bimetallic balance, flat balance spring.
Sold to Pierre Cartier.
Length 15.5 cm
PANTHER CLIP BROOCH
CARTIER PARIS, 1949
Platinum, white gold, one 152.35-carats Kashmir sapphire cabochon, single-cut diamonds, two pear-shaped yellow diamonds (eyes), sapphire cabochons (spots).
Sold to the Duchess of Windsor (1896–1986). From the late 1930s onward the Duchess was a great fan of Cartier. Many of her jewels were made in collaboration with Jeanne Toussaint.
6.0 x 3.7 x 3.0 cm
PANTHER CLIQUET PIN
CARTIER PARIS, 1957
Platinum, white gold, brilliant- and single-cut diamonds, sapphire cabochons (spots), green garnets (eyes).
Provenance: Nina Dyer (1930–1965), wife of Sadruddin Aga Khan. After her tragic death in 1965, her property was auctioned in 1969. Her possessions included a substantial wardrobe of panther-skin clothing and jewelry in the same pattern, testifying to her passion for this cat. Her collection of Cartier panthers included another bracelet and a ring.
9.06 x 3.00 cm
PANTHER CLIP BROOCH
CARTIER PARIS, 1958
Platinum, white gold, brilliant- and single-cut diamonds, sapphire cabochons (spots), marquise-cut emeralds (eyes), onyx (nose).
Provenance Nina Dyer.
5.35 x 2.65 cm
PANTHER BANGLE
CARTIER PARIS, 1958
Platinum, white gold, brilliant- and single-cut diamonds, sapphire cabochons (spots), marquise-cut emeralds (eyes), onyx (nose).
Provenance Nina Dyer.
5.85 x 7.17 x 1.75 cm
